Setup Guides

Setup Guides

Spyder Rocket Valve setup guide

The cone seal and O-ring are the front of the valve, then comes the valve body then the spring and SRP in the rear and the stem is in the middle of it all.

No you don't have to use the stock valve spring, and yes reading is required.

The further the SRP is turned down onto the stem the lower the amount of gas to get through the valve. I.E. less volume.. you can start any where from 1 to 4 turns in from the end of the stem. Most start with 2. BUT in march of 04 we shortened the valve a bit to allow for more room for the srp and an unmodified hammer. The stems are the same length though so you will have to turn the srp in a bit more. These two pics show how the srp fits in. The Rocket now takes up almost close to the same amount of space as a stock valve when completely open

IMPORTANT, ONE FULL TURN ON THE SRP IS A GAP CHANGE OF .025".

Always file the stem down to the srp after making an adjustment.(pic 107,108,109) If the stem sticks out like pictured above and you fire the marker the stem will get hammered through the srp. Also if you set your srp to close to the end of the stem, your cone seal may hit the asa adaptor.. Bad for you. $10.00 for a new one.

Well here is the basic install. Take your marker apart. Remove the drop and pull the spring and valve stem out. Next remove the brass set screw from the valve and push the valve out the front of the marker. A pencil works fine for this. Your marker should now be empty (106) . From the pictures you can see where the valve goes in the marker. The rocket goes in with the point to the front of the marker and with one hole pointing to the bolt and the blow back port/slot to the side. (104) . Slide the Rocket in and put the radiused set screw back in and put your marker back together. That's all there is to putting the valve in. check that you put lock tight on the S pring R etainer P late (SRP) and file the stem down flush with the SRP. Check the last Three Pic's Above. The mods below are for the same marker pictured a "Red Black dragon" and were to get it to function at lower pressures.

If your marker isn't recocking at below 300psi check to see if your hammer o-ring is passing the vent hole on the bottom of your marker Above the trigger. If its not going past the vent far enough then you need to file the stem shorter or remove a bit of your hammer dimple, to get a bit more into the pressure area that recocks the hammer. This allows for a tighter compression area and will allow the marker to recock at lower pressures.

WHY file the stem flush with the SRP? Filing the stem flush will Keep the hammer from driving the stem through the SRP.

Use Lock tight!! On the SRP , red or blue.

IMPORTANT INFO HERE, ONE FULL TURN ON THE SRP IS A GAP CHANGE OF .025".

No, You don't have to do any of these mods to drop the operating pressure below 500 Psi. Only if you cant get it to recock below 500 Psi. DON'T USE THE ROCKET OVER 500 PSI for Very long its not designed for high pressures.

You only need a Regulator to get lower pressure. But you will also need a valve designed to work at low Pressures. Stock Valves Don't Flow Enough Air!!

As a matter of fact if you don't have a Low Pressure reg you need to get one.

Always File the Stem Flush with the SRP on Spyder type Markers!!!

Some Markers will drop down to 260 psi With no mods at all , you get what you pay for with higher end markers. These mods are just what I did to get this $99 Marker to go low. Best Bang For the Buck. I always set the pressure to get 285/290 FPS (WE PLAY OUTDOORS) The air pressure varies from marker to marker and I cant tell you where to set your pressure. Just go as low as you can get and still recock the marker without any paint in the barrel. check the velocity and adjust air pressure and hammer spring tension to get what your looking for. If the marker isn’t getting Below 350 PSI then you need more flow through. If your getting drop down in velocities when shooting fast ether slow down or get a better Regulator. Or try some of the mods to get more air through your marker. If the marker consumes to much air check your o-rings for a good seal, and paint for a good fit. if your paint is rolling out the barrel its not a good fit. Then adjust the dwell down some and lock tight it back in place. (FILE IT FLUSH)

Here are some pic of mods to a Spider compact/ Black Dragon Electronic trigger to help it run low pressure. The drill bit used was .280" cobalt. when drilling it is best to follow the original holes. But Bigger is Better;)

Pic (3) is the hammer, its the skinny one. It has been dished out with a dremmel diamond abrasive disk.(Optional). Don't grind the outer edges it is case hardened and should be left to protect the o-ring. The easiest way is to chuck it in a drill or lathe and grind it while it is spinning. First remove the nub then grind a cup while it spins It is pretty quick once the nub is gone. regular stones will not work for grinding hardened hammers only the red diamond disks. It is cupped to help with low pressure recocking. Once your valve is setup with locktight Filed Flush and installed, Dish the hammer until it will make Contact with the cross pin in the body and open the valve fully with out binding the SRP. Similar to the cocker setup. You can also remove the pin and grind the hammer until it can be seen flush through the Pin hole while pushing the valve completely open. This takes a little time but works great. The dish is less than an 1/8 inch deep after removing the nub.

Pics (4/5/6) are of the hole from the drop into the Asa. (look at them carefully). The hole must not be drilled past half the thickness of the nipple pic (4/5) or you will cut into the oring seal area of the plug or volumizer. see pic (6) .The line is the center of the nipple. drilling here allows allot more air flow into the upper chamber.

Next are (7/8/9/10) this hole will allow more air into the valve chamber quicker. in pic 7 do not use the dimple to drill this hole. it isn't centered on the other side. and you will drill into the threaded hole in pic (8/9) . after drilling the holes the stock springs will still fit pic (10) . If you do hit the treaded hole use Teflon tape on the holding screw to seal it ,it works fine as does RTV pic (1-8) . But its best to drill at a slight angle from (7) away from the treaded hole, you will leave a grove in the spring area but will miss the treads. don't do to much of an angle or you will hit the oring Grove then you will need to buy a new drop.

If you need more flow and don't mind putting silicone sealant on your retainer screw, (8) drill the hole in pic (9) as big as the main hole. see the last two pics, just center the drill bit in the hole and drill straight through. Don't use the dimple in pic (7) for drilling it you will drill the other side in the wrong place. see the last two.

Last mod here (1010) It is for the few who can't get the gun to recock below 400 after all mods. You can make the slot that lets air back to recock the marker deeper and wider. BUT you May start to loose some velocity. Its a Trade off. if your Max velocity is over 300 fps and you don't mind , make it deeper to get it to recock at lower pressures and still keep the velocity above 290 fps. This will require removing the valve a few times and a bit of testing but it Will work. Remember though this mod will void any warranty on the valve body!!! That is unless I do it or the dealer who installs it does and lets me know.. And we will Rewarrenty the valve body.

Still Not Working??? well lets try shortening your valve stem a bit or the hammer. first we have a timing issue with your hammer and the valve stem. the marker has a compression area between the vent port and the rear of the valve. if the valve stem is a bit long then the valve opens before the hammer can get deep enough into this area. the result is the valve blows back and cant generate enough pressure long enough to push the hammer back before the pressure gets vented. Shortening the nipple on the hammer so that the outside edge of the hammer can touch the cross pin with the valve in place will help greatly. IE dishing it out just enough so you can feel it push the valve completely open and hear/feel the hammer contact the cross pin. this gives max time open for the valve and max compression time for the hammer.

Here is a brand new shutter with a rocket installed, a new Dye high flow reg and my asa adapter, see the mods pics below. It was setup in 15 minutes at 325 PSI and 295 FPS its all stock other than the three parts I installed. A lighter hammer and bolt will most likely allow it to go lower. also removing the stock "bottle neck" I mean reg at the end of the grip will greatly improve things. also setting it at its max pressure to reduce any restrictions for testing your setup helps. just getting a new drop works better.

last but not the least , Don't blame me if you screw up your marker. I've done each mod to my own marker and like the results, and I've got the equipment to do it with properly. Use a vice for holding the asa when drilling and take great care when setting up. always wear safety glasses, and use a pad to keep the scratches off the aluminum I.E. paper towel. And remove any sharp burrs so they stay out of your marker.